Those are what I'm looking at. I reseated the LF strut since it wasn't snug on the bottom perch and that seems to have tamed the clunking down, no just hearing normal road noise. Fingers crossed!
Replaced all upper and lower control arms July 2021 so they're fresh, less than 20k miles on them. Replaced sway bar links and bushings at the same time.
How long do the upper strut mounts last? I’ve replaced all the front end components over the past two years and just replaced the struts in April. I’m still getting some front end clunking when going over bumps so I’m thinking the upper mounts are bad. They’re the OEM mounts with 182k miles and...
You can pop the fender liner then replace the rivets. I do that occasionally to get pine needles and other debris out. Can you reach the item from the side where the fender meets the door?
Installed new Bilstein 4600s all around. Installed the fronts according to Bilstein's instructions, but installed the rears differently. Instead of installing the steel spacer (washer) on on the strut stem according to the instructions (#2 in picture below), I installed it like a washer under...
Try this: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0453
and this: https://obd2pros.com/dtc-codes/p0453/
Check all your wires since you replaced the fuel pump and canister. Could be the EVAP pressure sensor is going bad.
I'm on my second set of Bilstein 4600's and they work great. Stock shocks were done after 70k miles, first set of Bilsteins lasted ~150k miles. Just replaced them last week with 182k on the truck. Ride is much firmer and solid again.
You're going to want to pull and replace them all since they are a major failure point on the 5.4 3V. I used the tool AND pulled the camshafts since one camshaft was scored. Both methods work, just need to be careful when reinstalling the followers since they can slip off their seats easily.
UPDATE: got the parts and coolant in Friday and replaced the gaskets Friday night. Took me about 2.5 hours. All because of this:
If anyone needs to do this repair, here's a great video on how to remove the bypass pipe without removing the intake manifold...
More leak pics. Haven't started the engine since yesterday, the bypass pipe is leaking like crazy. Parts & Coolant will be here tomorrow, will hopefully get it fixed this weekend.
Close up #1:
Close up #2:
Driver's side engine valley (fluid training along it, hard to see):
Coolant puddle:
Gasket on the driver's side of the coolant bypass pipe has failed. It leaks coolant down the back side of the valley and down the bell housing, also down the front (how I finally found it). Been leaking all winter, just haven't had time to diagnose it or the desire to fix it until it got warmer...
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