You can inspect yourself. Jack this corner up and grab the wheel from 6 and 12 o’clock position and push in and out. If it clunks then you have an issue. Other potential failure could be a torn boot and lots of grease covering the boot.
I doubt you have any issues since these joints would...
Honestly, I can’t imagine how Ford can deny coverage under new car warranty (or extended full warranty) for something like this! This is obviously their fault. Insurance has nothing to do with this. This is a manufacturing/assembly problem.
What are the appropriate customer protection channels...
You should ask them to first take a lateral run out reading of all 4 rotors. This could still be coming from the front rotors. They will easily determine which one is causing the issue. Then they will remove the rotor and check the hub.
this could simply be rust build up on the hub face or a...
I don’t think you should pay for a new engine now. Take it to a real mechanic for proper diagnostics. They will charge you 2-3 hours for diagnostics but can know exactly why it has low compression. I doubt it is a burnt valve or broken piston since it is very unlikely to happen in two cylinders...
The reason they don’t put it back is because it disintegrates upon removal. Mine is flaking badly and I don’t think I can reinstall it when I replace the battery.
Now, is it important?? I think so. It is a heat insulator to protect the battery from under the hood temperature spikes.
Don’t waste time and money on fluid analysis. At this mileage you need to:
- drop the pan and valve body and change the square pump seal.
- change the bulkhead connector.
- perhaps most importantly, change the cooler lines. There are some reported cases of cooler lines snapping at the quick...
I would keep it and save the $$. This gen of Ecoboost is great after the cam phaser update. I prefer it to newer ones since it doesn’t have the EGR system.
The 10 speed may fail again in 40k miles if you got the old version of the CDF drum. For longevity consider shifting manually, using sport...
I have the pulsing while towing. Occurs only on throttle so I assume it is in the driveline. Even with the smallest U-Haul trailer I still get this pulsing! It only started around 55k miles!
Do you see any debris or rust in the system?? These new coolants are pretty good in keeping the system clean.
I even stopped doing flushes since I have difficulties getting all the distilled/tap water out and getting the correct coolant mix ratio.
Now I just drain and refill with new coolant...
I think this event could be the valve body issue mentioned in the same TSB.
If the drum fails, it will let you know. This is physical damage that will manifest itself all the time.
Yes, this is bad programming in my opinion. Why is shifting to 5th at 25 mph. If you give it enough throttle the shift will be later and much smoother.
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