I was really hoping this upgrade would be strait forward and on paper it is. This job was anything but easy, I can blame western PA winters for my headaches.
Started with the rears and the first big hurdle encountered was the seized on lower shock bolts that wouldn’t come out of the lower arm. Encountered this issue on both sides and had to use a 20 ton press to work the old bolts out. Second rear issue encountered was that the upper shock tower bolt that holds the top shock mount onto the shock, would not come off. This was an issue for both sides. Had to wire wheel clean the threads and use a small socket through the larger socket to break it free. This was rectified on the fronts by using the air tools that worked to take the nuts off without issue.
The fronts were difficult with getting the shock to mounts on with the springs compressed, used heavy duty large C-clamp to push the top on enough to get the nut started. Be sure to not what directing the shock mount is angled when lining up the spring perch!!!! Had to re clamp the spring to orient it correctly to install the bolts through the lower A-arm. Also instead of taking off the sway bar links just drop it from the mounts and let it hang down, this giver you enough play to drop the arm and pull the spring out.
All in all this took myself and another family member about 10 hours to complete. Time also included replacing pads and rotors on all four corners.
During this experience I found that both rear shocks were blown… I suspected as much but because it wasn’t dripping out and down the shock body, the dealer fought me on this last year. Oil was clearly visible coming out around the shaft once they were removed.
New 17 method rims wrapped in Cooper AT3 XLT 285/75r17 tires go on this Friday and then it’s getting an alignment. Shocks were set on the middle rings all around to keep a close to factory rake and add a small amount of lift.
Started with the rears and the first big hurdle encountered was the seized on lower shock bolts that wouldn’t come out of the lower arm. Encountered this issue on both sides and had to use a 20 ton press to work the old bolts out. Second rear issue encountered was that the upper shock tower bolt that holds the top shock mount onto the shock, would not come off. This was an issue for both sides. Had to wire wheel clean the threads and use a small socket through the larger socket to break it free. This was rectified on the fronts by using the air tools that worked to take the nuts off without issue.
The fronts were difficult with getting the shock to mounts on with the springs compressed, used heavy duty large C-clamp to push the top on enough to get the nut started. Be sure to not what directing the shock mount is angled when lining up the spring perch!!!! Had to re clamp the spring to orient it correctly to install the bolts through the lower A-arm. Also instead of taking off the sway bar links just drop it from the mounts and let it hang down, this giver you enough play to drop the arm and pull the spring out.
All in all this took myself and another family member about 10 hours to complete. Time also included replacing pads and rotors on all four corners.
During this experience I found that both rear shocks were blown… I suspected as much but because it wasn’t dripping out and down the shock body, the dealer fought me on this last year. Oil was clearly visible coming out around the shaft once they were removed.
New 17 method rims wrapped in Cooper AT3 XLT 285/75r17 tires go on this Friday and then it’s getting an alignment. Shocks were set on the middle rings all around to keep a close to factory rake and add a small amount of lift.
