Cargo Capacity (Roof)

[Matthew Abrams]

Looking to see if anyone has any figures on the impact (if any) of adding aftermarket roof rail cross bars. I have the factory cross rails and they have a capacity of 125lbs. I also have Thule Aeroblades from my old Explorer which have a capacity of 200lbs. My question: Is the 125lbs factory limit, that of the cross bars, or the side rails?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Expedition Dave]

From the manual, it says the roof (w/o sunroof) says 200 lbs, does it not?

 

[Matthew Abrams]

From the manual, it says the roof (w/o sunroof) says 200 lbs, does it not?

Correct - but I have a sunroof

 

[Fozzy]

When I bought my roof rack the store said the 125lbs sunroof limit and the 200lbs non sunroof limit are the max loaded dynamic weight rating evenly distributed. That means you can drive with this amount of weight on your roof. It affects the total vehicle load rating and it’s handling characteristics. The glass and all the motors and mechanisms must weigh 75lbs that is taken away from the roof top load rating. Adding a higher CG. Manufacturers don’t want a top heavy vehicle rolling over and getting sued. I asked how people use the roof top tents. If they can only hold that much weight. They said that is a static load or non moving load. They said most manufacturers do not list the static load limits. That is why they offer the HD load bars to support the weight of people on the roof inside their tents. RTT can weigh anywhere from 100lbs to 200+lbs depending on brand and model. This may bust your dynamic load rating so you need to be mindful what’s on your roof. But they said if I had the HD bars (200 lbs.) and a 200lbs rated RTT I could put 400lbs of people and gear in the tent evenly distributed. I can tell you from experience that the factory crossbars are very flimsy. My rack had a lot of movement and vibration with the factory crossbars. I installed the HD bars and it’s solid as a rock now. When my roof is loaded with two boxes of tools, Maxtraxs, awning, lights, brackets and the weight of the platform itself. I am around 200lbs. No problems in a year of use.


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[Wayne Decker]

The cross bars that came with my Plati with sunroof are labeled 90kg max. So you are not allowed to put any pounds up there, only kilograms.

 

[Fozzy]

The cross bars that came with my Plati with sunroof are labeled 90kg max. So you are not allowed to put any pounds up there, only kilograms.

That’s a lot of coke, that’s the only thing I haul in grams. 90 is the non sunroof model. I would love a non sunroof Platinum.


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[MichelePeq]

When I bought my roof rack the store said the 125lbs sunroof limit and the 200lbs non sunroof limit are the max loaded dynamic weight rating evenly distributed. That means you can drive with this amount of weight on your roof. It affects the total vehicle load rating and it’s handling characteristics. The glass and all the motors and mechanisms must weigh 75lbs that is taken away from the roof top load rating. Adding a higher CG. Manufacturers don’t want a top heavy vehicle rolling over and getting sued. I asked how people use the roof top tents. If they can only hold that much weight. They said that is a static load or non moving load. They said most manufacturers do not list the static load limits. That is why they offer the HD load bars to support the weight of people on the roof inside their tents. RTT can weigh anywhere from 100lbs to 200+lbs depending on brand and model. This may bust your dynamic load rating so you need to be mindful what’s on your roof. But they said if I had the HD bars (200 lbs.) and a 200lbs rated RTT I could put 400lbs of people and gear in the tent evenly distributed. I can tell you from experience that the factory crossbars are very flimsy. My rack had a lot of movement and vibration with the factory crossbars. I installed the HD bars and it’s solid as a rock now. When my roof is loaded with two boxes of tools, Maxtraxs, awning, lights, brackets and the weight of the platform itself. I am around 200lbs. No problems in a year of use.


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Would you be willing to let me know which roof rack you purchased? I’ve been looking and cannot find one for mine! Much appreciated

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

I did the roof rack thing years ago and hated everything about it. Eventually, I picked up a hitch-mounted cargo rack and one of these. It's far easier to load/unload and I can just remove it and take it with me when I arrive at my destination. They're also stackable (straps required as they don't have a built in locking mechanism like rolling toolbox systems).

 

[Expedition Dave]

Roof loads are a funny thing.
In considering a massive Thule type box in the future, I added an extra factory Ford bar to displace and better secure whatever that box/future held.

Still, for the hardtop Expy I would question 200 pounds on the roof being thrown side to side "warbling" during serious, extended off-roading (and I will qualify what that is: routinely lifting one wheel off the ground). Ronnie Dahl and 4xoverlanding (YouTube) go into it quite a bit, and failures.

I don't know of anyone else here but the Foz and the new guy here from Kingdom Overlanding (YouTube) who have done more with weight on the roof and serious off-roading so I will defer.

 

[Fozzy]

Would you be willing to let me know which roof rack you purchased? I’ve been looking and cannot find one for mine! Much appreciated

First off, Welcome to the forum and I hope you enjoy your Expy as much as I enjoy mine. I tried to reply to your PM, but since Tapatalk is gone its hard to get pictures added without links and URL's. I bought a Rhino Rack Universal 76"x54" platform. When you buy the universal kit it came with brackets that can attach to the factor crossbars by clamping onto them or they can be used with T-Nut style slots. I would recommend going to a rack store. It seems a lot of people just trying to order stuff online have a hard time with fitment, parts and rattles. Cost a little more, but its done right and they know what fits and what doesn't if its a good store. I have a MAX and it goes from the back where I can still open the lift gate all the way to the back of the first sunroof panel. It does not limit the use of the front panel view, vent or slide feature. Yakima and others also make a platform. I originally had it mounted to the factory rails and they were so flimsy it moved and vibrated like crazy. It was very low and stealth. But when it snowed and melted and snowed again it would accumulate a huge block of ice under the rack. I could not get it out because it was so low to the roof. I eventually added the heavy duty crossbars and used the Yakima clamps that grab the factory rails. It lifted it way more than I liked but I can get a snow scraper and brush under the rack to keep the snow and ice out. It is also nice because I have a 180 awning and I am 6'2" and it makes it so I can walk under it without ducking down. I am not sure what your use case is? Looks, storage, tent or something different. I am currently changing mine up to hold two solar panels to charge my SoGen. It will have two solar panels, Maxtracks, shovel, whip mount, storage box and 360 lighting. I don't have the boxes mounted or lights on yet. Its a real pain to move stuff on the rack. If I was to do it again I would buy the LGE-CTS/Baja Forged rack or have one custom made so I wasn't limited to the rail set up.

New setup in progress




Old set up