Go Back   Ford Expedition Forum > Ford Expedition Forum > 1st Gen - 1997 - 2002

Sponsored Ads
Register to remove these ads.


1st Gen - 1997 - 2002

98-02 Expedition and Navigator check suspension light diy solve


This is a discussion on 98-02 Expedition and Navigator check suspension light diy solve within the 1st Gen - 1997 - 2002 forums, part of the Ford Expedition Forum category!
Register to remove these ads. It's free! I would just like to share this to everyone that doesn't know how ...



Like Tree1Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-31-2012, 12:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User

 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: sanfrancisco
Posts: 8
Default 98-02 Expedition and Navigator check suspension light diy solve


Register to remove these ads. It's free!
I would just like to share this to everyone that doesn't know how to remove the check suspension light off after converting to coil spring setup. Either lowering or lifting your expo and navi. I'm sharing this because I learned it the hard way, and most of the time it happens to most of us!.. granted strut master and other company just give you instruction to cut #12 wire, it even says white or black plug!wow, why make it hard for everyone. you won't be able to see the wires until you take everything out to look at both plugs. Someone here mentioned that it's the gray plug,,,,, that is wrong i'll explain this in a bit. Picture speaks for itself.

let's start.

TOOLS NEEDED.
1. 7MM Socket ratchet or screwdriver style
2. flat head screw driver
3.flash light
4.optional small mirror it helpful to look at the plugs if you don't want to remove half of the dash board

first, turn off the suspension switch and negative ground on the battery. remove the center top dash panel. you can see the suspension module, it's on top of the radio. but even if you remove the radio you can't access the plugs, because the plugs of the module is at the back. just cut that green wire that you can see on the white plug. Note: it's the "green" wire from the white plug. don't be fooled by others saying it's the gray plug. there is no gray plug there, only black and white. and you're done once you cut that green wire, secure both ends with electrical tape. Don't forget to turn on the suspension switch, that way you still get to use the steering assist feature.




cut this green wire its on the white wire not the black plug





2.heres other option take half of your dash incase you need to be sure and want to see both plugs



this is the plug look at diagram from suncore above you can see and match the colors if youll ask if i check it yes i learned it the hard way this is the main power and needs to be cut hope this help others that want to kill the light instead of removing your light on cluster do it once and do it right

Last edited by Sooter6; 03-31-2012 at 04:03 AM.
Sooter6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2012, 06:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
1997SCEBFEX's Avatar
Full Access Members

 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Northwest Panhandle
Posts: 808
Default

Thanks for the tutorial!!
1997SCEBFEX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 11:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User

 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: York, PA
Posts: 6
Default Suspension conversion issues

This is a great thread! I have recently converted my 2001 Navigator using the Monroe kit from Amazon. (Awesome deal, fast shipping, and the same parts as the other kits I am sure.) However, I need to make some important points:

1) Don't pull your instrument cluster! The directions are wrong, because there is no "CK SUSP" light bulb! Sorry, this cluster has an opening where there once was a bulb in a prior design, but it was changed to a LED (I believe) & the bulb-socket is gone. Ouch!

2) My system developed a bad electrical short after a front strut blew. It probably ran the copressor until it burned up, or took out the relay (where ever that is!) Bottom line: Even with the ignition key out, the suspension switch "OFF," the truck on stands, the suspension hanging low - The compressor would try to come on interemittantly until it nearly killed the battery! I had no choice but to pull the 50A fuse (#109,) and disconnect the compressor & solenoids to protect the system.

Now the CK SUSP light comes on after a mile of driving. Wosre yet, my PATS immobilizer is trying to interupt the fuel &/or ignition! It's not throwing any codes, or actually stopping the car, just causing the THEFT light to barely & unevenly flicker, and causing the truck to bog/hesitate for a second. ...very weird.

Something tells me the unattended CK SUSP code has caused the PATS to force the THEFT immobilizer. Has anyone else experienced this?

3) My rear control arms were totally rusted-out, so I knew this was the time to change them. If you wait until the springs & shocks are in, it's a much tougher job. Do this BEFORE reinstallation of the new springs & shocks. Check out the expy-source package on eBay. It is a very nice kit, and I recommend getting the hardware too...the old ones are next to impossible to remove, so just cut them off. ...Trust me, this saves hours of time & your neck & back!
Givenator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 05:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
Full Access Members

 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 523
Default

Is there a hardware kit available for the trailing arms? If so, if rather do that than just buy random bolts.
__________________
2000 XLT, 4.6L Black


1998 XLT, 5.4L White (former police vehicle) - headed to the junk yard soon.
98EXPY 5-0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2012, 02:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User

 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: York, PA
Posts: 6
Default

Yes, there are several options for the kits. I got the full set of upper & lower arms, with outstanding hardware for all...top quality stuff!
Givenator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2012, 09:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
Full Access Members

 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 523
Default

Originally Posted by Givenator View Post
Yes, there are several options for the kits. I got the full set of upper & lower arms, with outstanding hardware for all...top quality stuff!
I ordered the top and bottoms on ebay but I dont think the hardware is included.
__________________
2000 XLT, 4.6L Black


1998 XLT, 5.4L White (former police vehicle) - headed to the junk yard soon.
98EXPY 5-0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2012, 12:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User

 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: York, PA
Posts: 6
Default You don't have to cut the wire...

Thanks to Sooter6 for this fine thread. In fact, I just did this to my 2001 Navigator, and it did finally kill the CK SUSP light. However, you don't need to cut the wire! I went down through the top of the dash, and...

1) Disconnect the connector Sooter shows. I used a small flat-blade screw driver to defeat the latch, and carefully worked the connector out of the SCM. (A small mirror helps you here.)
2) Notice the connector has a red contact locking bar in its face. There is a small recessed hole in the center of the red bar, and that is to allow you to pry it up & out with a strong pin. I used a small center punch for sinking brad nails. Remove the red bar.
3) Locate the contact to remove, and notice there's a white plastic contact latch down inside the housing. Carefully deflect the plastic latch back, while pushing the contact backwards out of the housing.
4) Replace the red lock bar.
5) Completely tape the contact with electrical friction tape, to make sure it can't short against anything conductive.
6) Replace the connector in the SCM.
Givenator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 12:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
Registered User

 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: sanfrancisco
Posts: 8
Default

Glad it help you out! i had to post this coz I notice no one ever had post 1 and i know it will be usfull
Sooter6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2012, 02:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
wyo_vr4's Avatar
Full Access Members

 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 82
Default

The green wire does not correspond to the wire location in the diagram. Am I missing something?

NVM, it worked. Thanks OP! Kudos to anyone who did this by only removing the top of the dash. Now my steering feels normal again.

Last edited by wyo_vr4; 08-27-2012 at 06:30 PM.
wyo_vr4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2012, 10:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
wyo_vr4's Avatar
Full Access Members

 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 82
Default


Register to remove these ads. It's free!
The compressor kicked on this morning in spite of me having cut the wire. I pulled the fuse and will see how it goes.
wyo_vr4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




GM Truck Forum
Ford Raptor Forum
Chevy Tahoe Forum
Chevy Cobalt Forum
Chevy Camaro Forum
FJ Cruiser Forum
Ford Truck Forum
88-98 GM Truck Forum
73-87 Gm Truck Forum
Dodge Ram Forum
Chevy Equinox Forum
Chevy Cruze Forum
Jeep Liberty Forum
Jeep Forum
Dodge Ram SRT10 Forum
Chrysler 200 Forum
Scion xD Forum
Scion xB Forum
Dodge Challenger Forum
Scion FR-S Forum
Softball Forum
SRT Forum
Nissan Titan Forum
Buick Enclave Forum
Cadillac Forum
Cadillac XTS Forum