3 JL 10"s and a 1000W amp

[Expeditionary]

So a few months back I bought a 1000.1D Hifonics amp from SonicElectronix after I got my 3 JL audio 10W0s and the thing didnt work, it would power up and everything but put no power to the subs. Took it to 2 different shops and they couldnt find anything wrong with it, so being the procrastinator I am I stuck it in my room as a decoration and wrote it off as junk since I didnt want to pay for shipping to and from sonic electronix.
Long story short I have been running 3 10s off the stock sub amp and my Kenwood headunit. I didnt think it sounded bad but it didnt slam like 3 quality 10s should (OBVIOUSLY!) they are a high ohm sub (12ohm a piece) wired down to 4ohm in the enclosure, which is the only way I could see why the stock amp could even rattle my tailgate at full bass.
Last night I just had some random urge to plug the amp back into the truck and I turn on some tunes and the bass starts thumpin a little, go back play with the gains, boost knob all the way up, and WHAM! stupid bass.
No idea what was wrong with it but now it works and thats all I care about, now if I crank it up its a real head turner.
Will post pics but just thought I'd share with yall

 

[Thermo]

Expeditionary, kinda sounds like to me that you were not getting the signal back to the amp from the head unit. That or you had one of the switches for the amp in a mid position, which essentially opened the circuit inside the amp, leading to the lack of power output.

 

[Expeditionary]

Expeditionary, kinda sounds like to me that you were not getting the signal back to the amp from the head unit. That or you had one of the switches for the amp in a mid position, which essentially opened the circuit inside the amp, leading to the lack of power output.

yeah idk what it was last time i plugged it in but i messed with all the gains and turned it up all the way, checked RCAs for signal, the amp cut on, light up, etc. Just had no power to the speaker outputs... Works now, I want a CAP, volt meter, and I kinda want to port the box, but its a JL powerwedge specifically designed to hold 3 10" W0s. So idk about taking a saw to it.
Since ive got the tranny fixed, and the rest of my ball joints will be done tmrw, aligned monday, I think I'll be in the hunt for a 6" Suspension lift

 

[Thermo]

Expeditionary, skip the cap. If you are needing a cap, then you are skimping on the wiring and still hurting the power capability of the subs. If you can, get your hands on an analog multimeter and get a set of long leads. You want to connect 1 end (red lead) to the positive of your battery and the other lead (black lead) to the input of the amp. Now, crank up the stereo. With the multimeter set on the DC scale (2 VDC scale), watch the meter. If you see it jumping up over about 0.75 VDC (actually over 1.00 VDC in reality, but due to the response of the actual needle, you will see less), then your wiring is too small and you need to get some bigger wiring. I tend to shoot for under 0.5 VDC actual. Amazing what happens when you get an amp capable of outputting what it is rated at with the proper power in. I had lots of people thinking I was running around 1000 W in my car when I was only running a 300 W RMS total system.

 

[Expeditionary]

i have 4 gauge from the battery to the amp (The MAX input power cable size) and from the amp to the subs im running 16 gauge, which i need to upgrade to 10 or 8 sometime.
I think my wiring will be okay its a nice kit from DB Link, but idk driving around with it for the past few days it one of those things where it doesnt seem as loud as when I first plugged in, and now Im wanting more... like maybe 3 kicker comp 12s instead of 3 jl 10s, wire those down to 1.3 ohms or so in a custom ported box and really shake things up!

 

[Thermo]

ha ha ha ha. The stereo bug has bitten. Please keep in mind that if you are maxing out the amp right now, you are pulling about 100 amps just for the sub amp (at full volume). If you start adding in the other loads of the truck and you have not upgraded your alternator, you can very easily overload the alternator which will lead to lower volume, flashing headlights, and in the long term, a dead alternator. This is a slippery slope. If you need help making sure that your electrical system is capable of handling the power you are needing it to supply, let me know and I will help you out with this. You may not like the answer, but that is what will more than likely need to be done.

 

[GAINMOB]

i upgraded my alt and it made my system bumb a lil harder...i have a ps1 18" in a ported box...with my current amp it blows my 2-kicker cvr's out the box...when i put my power acoustik amp on it...3600D...im in heaven...but i have to go back to my 12's because of family coming and need the room so the 3rd row has to be up

 

[panda24619]

or just be like me and buy a lifetime warrenty on the alternator and get a new one every time they go out. not like they are hard to replace!

also sonice has a very good policy. should have called them up and they would have sent you the info for free return and they would have sent you a new one. i only shop there, never crutchfield.

 

[rburch]

I would recommend upgrading the alt! The 130 amp is just enough to run everything on the truck! 200 amp should do for now! lol!

 

[panda24619]

my stock alt pushed everything just fine. all lights on and the sub bumping in the desert. then again i dont listen to it very loud cause i like to hear the truck working and listen for any weird sounds. but than again. i have a lifetime warranty on the alt. so when it goes out its takes me 45 mines to take it off go to the store change it and put the new one back in.