I wanted to introduce myself and I have a couple questions about my 2000 Eddie Bauer

Hey everyone I've been lurking here while I work up some good questions about my new to me (2000 Eddie Bauer AWD 4H 4L Expedition 5.4)

First a bit about myself and this truck.

When I was a kid my parents had a new 98 XLT that served us well and ever since then I've had a soft spot for these things so now that I'm getting ready for college I decided to upgrade from my 85 CUCV (kept it of course) to my expedition, I got it from a guy who had it for a year and didn't take care of it at all but before him I have a long chain of receipts showing good maintenance and the crown jewel, a complete engine and transmission rebuild about 60,000 back on a total of 170,000 miles on the truck. I've had a ton of fun painting and adding accessories as well as doing an oil change and flush, dropping the transmission pan and draining the torque converter, replacing a few vacuum lines to fix the AC and cleaning the throttle plates. Now, I will admit there are still a few issues: First, and probably worse of all, when cold started it has a nasty rough idle that surges and nearly stalls (video attached if I can figure out how). This clears up once the engine is warm. It also has some bad but not unsafe rust and a big handful of small issues - rear wiper doesn't work, it pulls right harder than I would like, missing a fog lamp, passengers window won't roll down all the way, and a few issues with door locks.

Alright, if you made it this far thanks for reading and if you have any advice of any of the issues or really anything else I'd love to hear it.

Thanks everyone!

Nick

P.S. Couldn't figure out how to attach the video so ill describe the rough idle issue.
Start truck, maybe 1 second crank, rpms maybe 12-1300. Slowly and steadily fall to about 900 hold for a bit then fall and shake until 500 or so then kick up to 1200 and repeat until warm when it seems to settle down around 900 (which I think is about right)?

Do the easy stuff first.. Clean your idle control unit, .. Test it, and if that doesn’t work, you need a code reader..I use BlueDriver.. Pretty good for the money..You will probably find a evap code, or O2 sensor problems..
You might want to notice your longterm fuel readings on each bank, and take note of them before you begin any work..I used idle readings, and driving a set speed like 55 mph and not the LTT reading and write them down.. As you find vac leaks, these readings should lower..
I ended up changing everything that used vacuum on startup on mine with 280 thousand.. It’s a work in progress
I use a silicon lubricant for windows rails and door locks..
on yours, it may have a bent something inside, but try the lubricant.. More the better..
Learn how to do the search functions on this site too..

I pulled the fuses on my rear wiper (2001 XLT) because the motor would not park properly and would run the battery down while parked. It could be I don't have the wiper installed properly or a problem inside the motor where it has contacts when parked. So before you think you have finished fixing yours, make sure that the battery does not have parasitic draw when the vehicle is off for say 45 minutes or so. Should be less than 0.05 amps. Not easy to test, but that is the target. If you see several amps after 45 minutes, you have a problem..

The rear door lock solenoids will fail to unlock or lock due to the 1/4 " rivets (black heads in 01) that are in the door jambs. The head pops off, you find a strange "button" on the floor and the door lock mechanism is floating in the door doing nothing worthwhile. An easy fix. Drill or pry the old rivet out of the spring metal saddle that the lock solenoid mechanism is held with. Get a big rivet tool and 1/4 " rivets and put it back in the door. Don't try and remove the door lock solenoid and its rubber cover from the spring metal. You will have lots of trouble reassembling it.

The rear passenger glass does not fully retract due to the rear wheel arches.

Just got all new vacuum hoses on back of engine solved all my surging and idle stalling issues. If you have bad air + a bad spark/coil or 2 it only makes it all worse. The computer starts to get faulty fuel trim warnings and oh what a headache.
Cost wasnt bad but had to go up on a lift at the mechanic to access.

Windows can be the glass it self (broken mounts) the x frame that brings it up and down those are easily fixed via diyyoutube vids or could be the switch/motor/ or actuator

I recommend replacing the cables for rear glass & hatch as well as gas struts for hood, rear window & rear hatch if you haven't & before they start hitting you in the head

Rear wiper likely needs a new motor; easy to fix. I suggest you change the fuel filter (if you've not done it already). Don't forget the A/C blend door actuator (that's a PITA; dash has to come out).