Any Crazy Things To Look Out For On The 5.4L 3v Timing Job?

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eddytheexpy

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I've decided to undertake the rite of passage associated with owning a vehicle with the 5.4L 3v Triton and take a crack at the timing job. I'm a few weeks out from having the time and parts to do it and I intend to start on October 4th when I get off of work.

Since I'm just a random moron with a wrench, Brian from FordTechMakuLoko will be my shaman and guide. I've done my research beyond his videos to find common and not-so-common pitfalls with the job. I've also don't some reading in the Haynes Manual for some extra info.

However, does anyone have advice for what off-nominals to look out for and what to do about it? I was watching the standalone video for the roller follower removal and installation and he said, "make sure the valve stem keepers are fully locked in and flush with the retainer" (at 8:20 of the video for those interested). He showed what it's supposed to look like but doesn't go over the plan if it's not. So in general, that's the sort of thing I'm looking for. The first time I do any job there's always something that is off-nominal. Annoyingly and without fail, any other time I do a similar job being prepared to use the experience I've gained, it goes as textbook as it gets. So I'm trying to mitigate the impact of what history suggests will happen. Of course, I'm also open to hear about wacky things that went down during the job if you've had such an experience and what tools to have on hand should something go south. This isn't my only car so I can make an emergency run to go pick something up in the moment or a bottle of whiskey should I do something to nuke the engine but I'd like to have things on hand especially if they are tools that I'm likely to use in the future for other stuff.

I know there's a 1000 threads on this job but I plan to post a thread of my experience of it and include before and afters of the engine sound and other things I find noteworthy.

Thanks in advance!
 

twodollars

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Make sure you have the special tools for compressing the valve springs, pulling the crank pulley, and the crank alignment tool. If your changing your oil pump, go slow and don't drop those bolts. If you do pray a magnet on a stick will find them in the pan. I found the roller followers on the passenger side were bad, the rollers on that side all had enough play in them you could easily feel it. Since they were all out, I replaced with new. In retrospect I should have swapped out the lash adjusters too, but money was tight and they all worked fine. Just a ***** to get too later.

As for the locks on the valve retainers, look at them as they are before disassembly so you know how they should look when your done. If they hang up and don't fully seat, compress the spring again and work them into position. Just be patient. None of its real difficult, just can be time consuming.
 
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eddytheexpy

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Make sure you have the special tools for compressing the valve springs, pulling the crank pulley, and the crank alignment tool. If your changing your oil pump, go slow and don't drop those bolts. If you do pray a magnet on a stick will find them in the pan. I found the roller followers on the passenger side were bad, the rollers on that side all had enough play in them you could easily feel it. Since they were all out, I replaced with new. In retrospect I should have swapped out the lash adjusters too, but money was tight and they all worked fine. Just a ***** to get too later.

As for the locks on the valve retainers, look at them as they are before disassembly so you know how they should look when your done. If they hang up and don't fully seat, compress the spring again and work them into position. Just be patient. None of its real difficult, just can be time consuming.
thanks for word of caution on the oil pump bolts as well as what to do to re-seat the valve stems. BTW, I plan on dropping the oil pan while I'm already in there in case stuff falls in it whether or not I'm aware that it fell into the soup.

As for the crank pulley puller, I have a few different sizes of 2-jaw pullers already. I'm expecting those to work and if not, run to harbor freight for their 3-jaw puller. I was reading that a lot of people had success with those instead of the $70 puller MakuLoco recommends. Do you believe a relatively large 2-jaw puller would be adequate for the job?
 

JExpedition07

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Oil pump pickup tube bolt was tough. I was 21 when I did mine so my hands were still smaller or boyish or whatever LOL and it was still hard. Maybe have someone smaller ready to try and get those bolts if you have issues. I ended up bending a 8 mm I think it was in the vice to fit the angle. That was a bear trying to get my hand in the damn oil pan from the front. Beyond that portion was very doable with patience (a virtue I didn’t have much of a few years ago). That was my big hang up. Had to walk away from the truck a few times at that pickup tube and just collect my thoughts.
 
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