Snapping sound in 4WD

[Gruz7]

Just ordered a new IWE solenoid to hopefully somewhat fix something as my current one looks worn and beat up... Still have yet to do these tests but I am now getting a loud whistle at the start of the truck and it goes away for good as soon as I go over 10mph and then doesn't come back until it sits for a few hours and it will only be there about 1/10 start-ups.... Strange so this made me get the new solenoid


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[Gruz7]

Reading around more F-150 forums I'm leaning towards also replacing the u-joints as that seems to be a fairly common fix to the clunk that I'm getting when I accelerate in 4WD.


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[2004XLT]

When you get to the front shaft universal joint let me know if you want some pointers, it's a tough one.

 

[Gruz7]

When you get to the front shaft universal joint let me know if you want some pointers, it's a tough one.

Oh yeah I'm hoping that replacing the u joint is something I can even do... The CVs look easy enough after watching a 6 minute video from 1AAuto but u joints are something I'm afraid to tackle...


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[2004XLT]

I was able to do it without a lift..I bet the rear driveshaft would be much easier because there's more space to work. Impact wasn't strong enough to crack the bolts so I had to jack up the car just enough to swing the breaker bar. Then jack it high enough to get a front wheel off the ground so you can spin the driveshaft to access the next bolt, lower it back down just till both tires touch the ground so the shaft doesn't spin on you. Anyone who has worked on cars could do it it's just tedious.

You need the same 12 point socket for the CVs, i think 12 or 13 mm. Also a 8 or 10" extension to reach past the shroud.

 

[Gruz7]

I was able to do it without a lift..I bet the rear driveshaft would be much easier because there's more space to work. Impact wasn't strong enough to crack the bolts so I had to jack up the car just enough to swing the breaker bar. Then jack it high enough to get a front wheel off the ground so you can spin the driveshaft to access the next bolt, lower it back down just till both tires touch the ground so the shaft doesn't spin on you. Anyone who has worked on cars could do it it's just tedious.



You need the same 12 point socket for the CVs, i think 12 or 13 mm. Also a 8 or 10" extension to reach past the shroud.

Yeah the video I saw on the CVs mentioned a 13mm with a decent extension... My problem might be torquing them to the correct amount as I don't have a torque wrench just a socket


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[2004XLT]

If you wanted to harbor freight sells a torque wrench in half inch drive for under $30. You're gonna need a breaker bar at least 18" long to crack the bolts loose.

 

[Gruz7]

If you wanted to harbor freight sells a torque wrench in half inch drive for under $30. You're gonna need a breaker bar at least 18" long to crack the bolts loose.

thanks i'll give them a look next time i'm near warwick.