Sounds Good Stereo Door Block Off Plate Install

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HILLY

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To improve my stereo’s sound quality, I came across Sounds Good Stereo’s door panel block off plates for the Expedition. I was going to apply sound deadening to my doors as it were, and these seemed to be the perfect addition to that project to help tighten up the mid-bass sound.

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...compatible-with-2018-2020-ford-expedition-max

The set comes for all four doors about 3/16” thick (I didn't measure before install) HDPE plastic that is very well finished. For ease of install for the average user, they also came with black self-tapping screws to mount them to the inner sheet metal. While these would work, I knew I could do better and set off to do the install with Rivnuts and appropriately sized screw bolts. I felt this would give a tighter more secure install while allowing future serviceability to remove the panel and reinstall if a window regulator, etc., needed to be worked on. I did this by using M4 rivnuts along with M4x20mm screws.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018RSSVJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To start the install, I started by aligning the circled holes in the plates over the nubs that are pressed into the inner door skin. I used a punch to create a center point for a pilot drill for the top L & R mounting holes to start with. Once I had this done, I put the panel down to drill a pilot hole and then followed up with a metric step bit ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T33RCCY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) to make a nice clean and tight opening for the M4 nut. Once I had the two holes drilled, I installed the rivnuts. You can also apply if inclined some touch up paint to the hole. But between the step bit making a clean drill and the skin being aluminum, it won’t rust. With the two rivnuts now installed, I was able to loosely screw the panel up to hang from these two. I found it was best to do it this way to make the additional holes. If the panel was tightened down, it would flex the panel enough to make the holes misaligned for final install. Also, prior to the final install, I lined the plate edge with high density foam weatherstrip tape ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-K...Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R516H/100090883 ) to give it a nice seal against the door.

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While I was at it, I also did sound deadening on the doors, but I won’t get into that for this writeup.

I will say overall that I felt like this was a worthwhile improvement. It definitely clean up the sound from the speakers and the mid-bass efficiency. IMO if you’re going to have the door panels off for either a sound deadening project, replacement speaker install, or both, this would definitely be worth your time and money.
 
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Mediamonkey11

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Interesting!

Did you by chance have the B&O system to begin with? Curious if this'd be an upgrade to that. I know sound deadening is beneficial overall but if not much would be gained over the 'higher end' sound system, then I'd be less inclined to go for it...
 
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HILLY

HILLY

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Negative. Have the base Sync3 with the 4.3” screen. This would be a benefit for all trims regardless, probably even more so with the better equipment of the B&O. What will be the same regardless is the lack of sound deadening in the doors and sound improvement from the plates.
 

bryz_expy

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@HILLY, thank you for this write up. I just recently saw your post about your Expedition.
I'm sorry.

I purchased my SGS Block off plates this past Spring, along with some Resonix sound dampening materials.
I was procrastinating doing this, but I am glad I saw this write up before starting the project.

I really liked your idea of the Rivnuts instead of the sheet metal screws that come with the SGS block off plates.
Also the suggestion on the foam strip for better sealing of the block off plate to the door panel. Providing the specific links your write up made it that much easier to order.

I didn't use a step bit, but that may have been easier. I used a 1/8 drill bit to make the first small divot for the pilot hole, then used 15/64 for the specific size for M4 Rivnuts. The project overall wasn't too hard, just time consuming and I also added sound deadening and some acoustic foam while I had the door panels off.

I used Resonix products, after watching their YouTube videos, I really liked their products, although a bit pricey.

Resonix Butyl Rope - I feel like our Expeditions had some pretty good foam/seam sealers on the crash bars, and other creases but I had ordered it already,
I did add some to the gaps that were easily accessible. My rear doors had a good buzz in them before added it to the upper seams and middle crash/support bars.

I used Resonix CLD (Constrained Layer Damping) Squares in addition to the couple of areas that had factory deadening applied.
I didn't see any places on the backside of the inner door trim/panel, the factory had the white pillowy stuff, and I didn't want to run into any fitment or re-install issues and the door skin not fitting properly.

After the CLD squares, I used Resonix Guardian on top of that. This stuff is thick and the adhesive is SUPER STICKY, so smaller squares were easier to place into the door cavity instead of bigger pieces, and being aware of where the window channels are to avoid contact when windows are down. The reviews are supposed to help with sound quality, plus a little more sound insulation. I didn't think it would make much of any improvement.

Like I mentioned, I wasn't expecting drastic sound differences, but I was extremely impressed on how much mids and mid bass improved.
I have the B&O sound system, and was considering upgrading speakers but I was going to do this later (at least hear the difference first) but now I might hold off on speaker upgrades altogether.

I did add CLD deadening to the surfaces of the SGS block off plates to help with some of the hallow sound once installed, but I'm not sure this is necessary.

Overall, very impressed with the results. I wouldn't hesitate to do this again in future vehicles.
 
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