Try jumping the battery with a known good one. The failure describe sounds like low voltage. Is the belt still there? Either the battery is bad due to a failed alternator or bad cell or you have a loose wire.
The starting circuit on these trucks is very basic. If it's not cranking, there's...
I love reading and seeing detailed write-ups and I'm sure others do too. But it's a lot of work. You can be sure if you post one, it will help out countless readers.
Kevmobile's post is spot on. If I were doing the work myself, or if I had a good mechanic who could be trusted, I'd sink the $1,500 in parts into it, drop and clean out the pan and call it a day. And I'd only use Ford Motorcraft parts.
I've done this work on an Explorer and it took about 12...
It can easily be repaired with hose and clamps. That's how the world does it. I put a little flare on the metal tube where I connect the hose to help secure it. As Mr. Dave says, the proper way is to replace the lines.
I did the same job on a 4.8L 2010 Explorer with 135,000 miles. My followers and cams were fine, so I did exactly what Max did: I held the cams with ViceGrips. Just mark everything well and don't wash the markings off.
I drive an 08 in suburban New York traffic and generally get about 60K miles from a set of Motorcraft brake pads. At that mileage, my rotors usually look pretty gouged up. Nobody around here cuts them anymore, so I usually look for a bargain on Motorcraft rotors. Two rotors, pads and hardware...
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