OP
OP
03NavigatorGuy
Full Access Members
Is that the one of the products from PowerProbe, like The Hook?
04 Navi No Start-No Crank No PWR to OBD
- Thread starter 03NavigatorGuy
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Minor update to using the long jumper wire. Since there is more than one circuit at the ignition switch and we are only looking at one of them we are changing the test procedure. Remove the starter relay, install test light or meter to check for voltage in the relay socket for 86. When the jumper is connected you should read battery voltage.
If you do have voltage, connect the ign switch back up, jumper in place (4 to 11), starter relay in place and try to start.
With the ign switch connected all circuits that need power will have it - or should. PCM should complete the circuit to ground and crank the engine.
If you do have voltage, connect the ign switch back up, jumper in place (4 to 11), starter relay in place and try to start.
With the ign switch connected all circuits that need power will have it - or should. PCM should complete the circuit to ground and crank the engine.
OP
OP
03NavigatorGuy
Full Access Members
Success!!! SORTA! This morning I retraced my steps and found that I was attempting to jump from the wrong pin/wire for pin 11, as in the light-of-day the colors look different than with flashlight. Anyway, with the jumper run from pin 11 to the wire 4 I can start the Navi, but only in Neutral. Still no dash, and you cant turn it off with the key, you must un-jump the wires.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
That tells you the pcm is supplying the ground to complete the circuit, but you do have a break in the wire. Before replacing it you should confirm with a continuity test from the ign switch plug to the cjb connector. While the meter is hooked up you can move/bend the harness where accessible. Who knows you may find the break.
You should also be able to start in park. If it won't the the digital range select may have failed. Depending on the transmission that sucker may be located inside it. Not something a beginner should attempt to replace, it usually requires removing the valve body.
You can also test the ignition switch unplugged from the harness. You should have continuity between 4 and pin 7 in start, also pin 4 to pin 6 in acc and run. If any fail the test replace the switch.
You should also be able to start in park. If it won't the the digital range select may have failed. Depending on the transmission that sucker may be located inside it. Not something a beginner should attempt to replace, it usually requires removing the valve body.
You can also test the ignition switch unplugged from the harness. You should have continuity between 4 and pin 7 in start, also pin 4 to pin 6 in acc and run. If any fail the test replace the switch.
Last edited:
OP
OP
03NavigatorGuy
Full Access Members
I will work on that! Now I have to see why the dash still doesn't illuminate and the HVAC doesn't either.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
You're call but I prefer to solve one issue at a time.
OP
OP
03NavigatorGuy
Full Access Members
Me too, just wasn't sure if they were somehow related!
I have ordered the part, will be in tomorrow. It's an external sensor so no issue getting it replaced. While I wait, what should we tackle today?
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Have you tested the ignition switch for continuity on the different circuits?
OP
OP
03NavigatorGuy
Full Access Members
No sir, I have not! How do I do that properly?
