B&O DSP DTC's and speaker placements

[5280tunage]

To set the stage - 2019 Expedition Platinum with the B&O 12 speaker (not unleashed).

About a year ago, I upgraded part of the stereo to include a sub (in a stock modified enclosure), L2Ci Pro converter and amp using Sounds Good Stereo amp side sub harnesses. Have had almost zero issues except related to the Auto Start/Stop, but that's completely different.

Question is related to a few weird issues I've noticed and see if anyone here has similar issues given any aftermarket changes, or similar issues in general.

Today, I was trying to pull some codes related to a Shifter Sys Fault, and found a few DTC's related to the DSP. Three actually, open circuits for speakers 2, 8, and 9.

Also, when I ran the speaker test procedure via the onboard diagnostics, here's what I found.
All Speakers except 8 and 9 had some sound. Speakers 2 and 6 sounded like a low frequency sub hum.

I also have never had the 3D sound from the parking aids, just the dash audio beeping sound from the instrument cluster speaker, attributed this to possibly a resistance mismatch between factory sub and aftermarket, even with the load resistance settings on the L2Ci Pro.

Finally I seem to have zero audio from the center channel even though I know for a fact the speaker there is just fine.

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So to my questions.
Does anyone have an accurate speaker inventory for this thing? the diagram I have which I'll post below shows speaker 2 is the center channel, but why would I hear a low frequency sub sound during testing if speaker 2 is the center channel?
Anyone know what speakers are 8 and 9?
Does everyone hear constant stereo sound from their center channel? regardless of audio source? I have tried setting the audio to stereo or surround with no change.
Anyone experienced similar issues after trying to upgrade this thing?
Has anyone taken out their center channel speaker, that can check the resistance on it? Like an idiot I threw mine away, is it 4 ohm? 8 ohm?

Appreciate your thoughts.

 

[5280tunage]

I'm starting to wonder if maybe the Sounds Good Stereo harness is to blame. My passenger second row midbass isn't working at all, I wonder if there was a difference on the amplifier pinout between model years and maybe the harness isn't right? Gonna be a huge pain to pull everything apart and remove the harness to retest.

 

[5280tunage]

Hey all - I'm going to answer my own post, in the hopes that it helps others.

First I need to correct one of my above statements, the B&O amp side harness for the sub high level input wasn't from SGS. My guess is theirs would have worked just fine. I had originally wanted to buy one from them but they never answered a couple questions I sent them in Jan 2023, so I think I went elsewhere. Turns out the harness was from a "PlugNPlayKits". Still looks pretty legit but oh well.

So given that I had 3 speakers showing errors in the DSP test procedure, and running the integrated test sounds I had the same outcome, I had a sneaking suspicion it was the harness. Finally got some time to tear apart the rear again, pulled everything out, down to pulling out the amp and removing the harness. At that point, I reconnected the battery and started testing, and sure enough all speakers started working (minus the sub obviously). I ended up cutting the old stock harness off the sub enclosure and used that as pigtails for my sub high level input and bam, that's working too.

Ran the DSP tests and the built in sounds tests and everything was good. Bundled it all back up and finally, i have the 3D park aid sounds back and everything. From my investigation it looks as though the pinout on my 2019 is different from the harness I bought. Just in case anyone wants to see what it is supposed to be:
Subwoofer 1 - positive - coming from amplifier is pin 15 (Green with Violet trace)
Subwoofer 1 - negative - coming from amplifier is pin 5 (Grey)
Subwoofer 2 - positive - coming from amplifier is pin 19 (white)
Subwoofer 2 - negative - coming from amplifier is pin 9 (Blue with Green trace)

Removing the harness and tapping those wires returned all audio functions and my DSP tests all complete fine. Sub still seems to work fine, I had to adjust levels a bit but what's more important is the vehicle functions are okay.

This is what I saw for the connector coming off the amplifier:



So my issues were my issues but glad it's working now.