Oil pump job?

[Machete]

So I noticed a 5 second tick upon cold start up. I’m like WTFFFFUUUUU.

This engine is silent otherwise. I just drove down to Fla again from Chicago with brand new 10/30 synthetic oil and MC filter.

Prolly have 3500-4000Mi on this oil.

I’m thinking oil starvation at initial start up because it doesn’t do it when hot.

At 205,*** would I benefit from replacing the oil pump or should I drop down to 20wt oil?

Either way since I’m traveling I’ll just pull in to the local Ford and get a oil change.

Your thought?

 

[BrentDJ]

It's really hard to say for certain without hearing the actual sounds. You haven't said anything about any previous work you've done on this engine, so I'll assume that you haven't had it apart already.

205K is about average mileage for a 2000 5.4 (anything between 200-250 is normal IMHO) With those facts it's more likely to be one of your timing chain tensioners in the inevitable process of dying. If you are going to pull the front apart to replace your oil pump, there aren't too many DGRs for you not to get a new timing chain, tensioners and guides and replace all those. FYI I've never had any problems with the stock oil pumps on the 1st generations I own. I just replaced timing chain, tensioners and guides on both the two rigs last year. One already had a broken timing chain guide from the year before and was waiting for me to get around to fixing it. That engine was saved by my decision to pull over immediately when the oil pressure gauge dived to zero and then trailer it home. The 2nd rig was already starting to wear on the guides very noticeably. It probably had less than a year or two before it would have suffered the same fate. It also made a ticking sound for about a minute or two on cold starts.

But, the Good News is that these are very strong and tough engines. I met someone locally who now has over 350k on his 1999. He has always used Costco synthetic oil and changes it at least twice a year. The only other maintenance he did was all the usual 1st generation problems that we all deal with. He told me that he changed the timing chain, tensioner and guides after about 200k. It sounded great at idle and didn't leak a drop of oil in my home driveway.

Just be ready to be "in for a dollar" even though you're planning on the dime project.

 

[Machete]

Well shoot it won’t do it anymore. It sat for hours but still warm not tick at start up.

This morning no tick at start up.

Changing oil. We’ll see. I’m not sure spending $1500 for pump replacement and related is realistic right now for this truck.

If it comes back I’ll need to find a shop. I’m not that mechanical.

 

[rjdelp7]

10W30 is the wrong oil. You may have broken Exhaust manifold studs. They make noise on cold start then expand and seal. Try a better quality oil filter. I have been using Fram Ultra Synthetic. You are brave taking a 200K vehicle, on 1200mi road trip.

 

[Machete]

My manual calls for 10W30 oil. Just went to dealer they put in 10W30 but it’s hot here in Fl.

It’s just not doing it now fuuuu. I hate that.

I drive from Illinois to Fl 4-6x a year. It’s all I use the truck for. Otherwise it sits in my garage.

Getting ready to list it on eBay as these trips will come to an end this summer v

 

[Machete]

So I had front stabilizer links, lower ball joints, front / rear sway bar bushings done figuring there isn’t a friggin thing this truck needs ...oh and just for my road trip to Illinois in couple weeks I had tires rotated and balanced.

So I’m at the cashiers window early this morning and she mentions that the tech noted I have 2mm in rear brake pads.

I blurted out loud WTF! by pure accident. I was just thinking out loud but everyone in the waiting room laughed.

But WhyTF didn’t they tell me that when they first told me my ball joints were blown out?

Just friggin fix everything dude!

Now I’ll have em done at my dealer in Illinois.

The tech and service writer both told me NOT to sell the truck so at least that made me feel better.