Rear Strut Bolt Stuck

[jstach]

I searched the forums and did not find anything from other posts so I am sorry if I missed something. If this is addressed, please just let me know how to find it and I will look. Having said that, I have a 2019 XLT 4x4 and I am trying to remove the rear struts to replace leaking orig struts with Bilstein 5100s. What I have run into is that I am having trouble removing the bolt where the rear strut is mounted to the lower control arm. I was able to remove the 30mm nut, but the bolt will not budge to be able to drop the control arm and get the strut out.

Have others encountered this? I have tried an impact wrench on the both head (25mm) while hitting the bolt with a hammer...and nothing. I do not have a torch to try heat right now and I also was trying to avoid ruining the bolt. Anyone else have to solve this and have advice beyond just getting a torch?

Any assistance is greatly appreciated!

 

[5280tunage]

have you tried a puller on it? i.e. like a tie rod puller or something, and any chance you started with a penetrating oil? Any time I work on suspension, exhaust, etc. I usually try to spray the major bolts/nuts with a good PB blaster or something the night before. I had some similar issues doing the brakes, had to use the old breaker and a small sledge.

Also, assuming you've played around with a jack on it, just curious if there is excess stress on it, like lifting the axle just half an inch may help. Sorry, axle isn't the right term, used to my solid axle rigs. the control arm.

 

[JasonH]

I had the same issue on one side. I lit it on fire with a propane torch and it came right out. There a rubber bushing that really grips the bolt.

 

[Mr Big]

saturate it with Liquid Wrench or Blaster. Smack it with a rubber mallet. Use your impact wrench and go from tighten to loosen. If that fails, you will need to heat it. Torch is best, but I've also used a high temp soldering gun, which takes longer to heat but will get you there. Make sure you wear protective gloves.

 

[jstach]

Thanks for the replies. I have been using liquid wrench, jacks and ensuring no tension on strut or control arm and all those kinds of things. I was just checking in to see if others had similar issues and could get them out without ruining the bolt more than general just get the bolt out stuff. I ended up using more liquid wrench, heat, big breaker bar, and a sledge trying to get it out. It finally came out with the sledge but mushroomed the bolt and had to grind that down to be able to finally punch it out...but the bolt was toast and needed replacement. Only local salvage yard that had one would not pull it for me just for that bolt (they would if I bought the whole control arm) so I had to get one from a dealer as the only way to get things back together right away and $14 for a bolt sucks.

Not that this helps anyone else really, but just to share - I found that the issue seemed to be that the bung welded to the inside of the control arm had some slag in the hole where the strut mounting bolt goes through and it looked like the bolt was just forced in during manufacturing and then that created scoring on the bolt and extra corrosion on top of the slag which seized everything in place. So just a bear and lots of effort to get it out because of a fluke issue and not something that is a general concern.

Anyway, thanks again for the suggestions and now on to the fronts! Feel ready for tackling them (bummer that you have to disconnect half-shafts to drop things low enough to get old struts out) and hope no major issues on those. If anyone has experience from the front Bilstein install they want to share that might help someone - please share!

 

[apex96]

I pulled the whole lower assembly off and placed it in a press. Pressed the bolt out and then put it all back together again with the 5100s. Road grime and years in the salt belt had the bolt seized into the strut.